2017 AOC Coteaux Champenois 'Chamery Blanc'
100% Premier Cru Chardonnay from Chamery, Montagne de Reims. Certified organic grapes, from south-east facing slopes, made of calcareous clay studded with limestone pebbles, and subsoils of sand rich in fossil shells. Fermented with indigenous yeasts, and aged in old barrels for 13 months. Zero SO2 at any stage. Bottled 01/10/18. 11.5% alc.
Such a clean, pure nose. Again it’s free and expressive, but subtle. White flowers, sea breeze, yellow plum, nectarine and apple. It’s very soft and delicate to inhale, not aromatic, but gentle and friendly. Lots of light sandy mineral action too. Clean in the mouth, pristine and fresh. Some texture, but the acidity is what catches you. It’s not razor sharp, but it’s very high, and nicely intertwined in the texture. Lemons, crunchy apples, and then some honey and barley to pull the potential sharpness back just enough. I love screaming acidity and tension, but this is just a notch back from that, and so superb. In a way, probably more approachable to most. You have amazing terroir, amazing grapes, no SO2, and so it is just like a really epic cool climate burgundy in a sense. Refinement without fatness. It’s almost Riesling-esque from its acidity and stoniness. Over time, flavours open up, and tension seriously builds. You get that frosty sensation. I would put this in the same category as the whites from Bruyère/Houillon and Kenjiro Kagami. It's seriously good, I'm in awe.