2019 VDF 'Surin' (Magnum)
100% Sauvignon Blanc, from 35-75 year old vines grown on clay with limestone subsoils, and some silex. In 2019 they decided to harvest a bit earlier than usual. In previous years they had done what Bruno Allion had - waited for peak maturity. But this time they wanted to preserve freshness and move away from texture and back towards acidity. The result is impressive. Direct press, then aged in old barrels for one year. Not fined or filtered, and zero sulfites added.
There is a tiny bit of gas when you open these - it helps to preserve the freshness and gives the wine a lively, energetic feel. Give the wine 5 minutes to breathe or a decant if you wish, and you're in for a treat! Beautiful reduction that is very reminiscent of Les Noëls de Montbenault Chenin from Richard Leroy. Lighter colour this year too. Vibrant and expressive on the nose. Cool river water over stones. Fresh and frosty, with subtle notes of lemon, fresh crisp apple flesh, white flowers and lemon sherbet. To taste it is very fresh with huge energy. Rather than textured, it is straight, crisp, and buzzing. High acidity, and great length. It is cool and stony like a Riesling almost. Very clean and elegant, and certainly no gross characteristics of Sauvignon (passionfruit, cat pee, grass etc). Would be very hard to guess this blind as Sauvignon. Even better from magnum too!