2016 VDF 'À la santé des mécréants'
Duras from 40 year old vines, grown on clay and limestone soils. Hand harvested, macerated for 15 days in tank. Zero SO2. This wine is dedicated to the journalists and artists of Charlie Hebdo, who died in the terrorist attack in Paris.
You could think this would be a big wine – but it has a bit of elegance and finesse about it. When you smell – wild flowers, rocks, herbs and blackberries. The florals become quite lifted and pretty. Perfect balance. The palate is quite plush, but with streamlined fruit and tannins – so it’s not rich or ripe – in fact, the fruit has been harvested at the perfect time. The tannins are prominent, but smoothed into the wine. This is very dreamy, and very delicious. Packed with flavour, but soft and gentle. Outstanding value. Not a drinking wine, but a meal wine. Day 3 and the berries are explosive! I am trying this after a 2006 Pierre Gonon Saint-Joseph (pungent black olive beast) and it is so vibrant and explosive in comparison – but in a similar serious and bigger fruit profile. Black currants and bright energy, damn it's good! Plums, raspberries, blueberries (big time) and all those fruity tannins. A food wine that will impress your guests.