2017 VDF 'Docteur Buchaille featuring Ordinaire' (Magnum)
Julie lost a large portion of her Moulin-à-Vent to hail in 2017, so this is a blend of two wines made from the remaining grapes, and the grapes from her Beaujolais parcel in Émeringes. The vines in Moulin-à-Vent are grown on granite and quartz and were planted in 1913, and the vines in Émeringes are grown on clay, sand and pebbles, and were planted in 1956. Docteur Buchaille is named after her neighbour who works in the vineyards with her, and Ordinarie is named after the natural wine bar in Oakland, California. Here we have 3 weeks slow carbonic maceration, then 6-7 months in old barrels. Zero SO2 at any stage.
Lots of cocoa dust, cherries and baking spice on the nose. There is the tiniest hint of VA, but it is well integrated and only acts as a perfume-lifter - similar to that of a pretty Barolo. Wild strawberries, charcuterie and herbs – all quite subtle, but express themselves more with air. To drink… plenty of mid palate, dark berries, some lighter strawberry notes, plus roses in the mouth. Very fine tannins, medium acidity, and lingering flavours. Texture wise it’s gentle and friendly, and feels nourishing. You can sense the granite on the back palate too. Over time it becomes more light-weight on the palate, with lots more strawberry action kicking in. The fruit becomes sweeter with time, so give this a chance to open up. Overall this is a super enjoyable drink with no harsh edges, something you could keep coming back to again and again.