2018 VDF ‘La Désirée’
Some of these Chenin vines are over 100 years old. Direct press, with fermentation beginning in tank. Transferred underground by gravity to old barrels, where the wine completed fermentation slowly, and aged for 27 months. No fining or filtration. Zero SO2.
Clear and lightly golden. Pleasing nose of apples, white flowers, lemon verbena, honeydew melon, and a flick of honey. While the notes are subtle, there is quite a lot of depth. As it warms in the glass the impression of silex is very apparent. To taste it has big energy and tingles on the tongue. Gentle texture, medium plus acidity, and huge mineral stamp, especially on the finish. Lots of drive and tension, but the edges are gentle so it’s not intense in any way. The flavours are a balanced, super smooth and long. Flavours match the aromas - however, descriptors don’t really do this justice, as it has this incredible depth and amalgamation that blends everything together so well. The wine offers the best of Chenin in a nuanced and balanced way – you have the depth, the honeyed notes that are subtle, all lifted by the acidity. It’s not intense, it’s not round – it sits right in the middle. There is texture, but drive and precision. The palate is frosty and fresh, and the flavours really linger. This drinks beautifully at the moment, but I feel it will age into something of grand stature. It’s old school, honest and relaxing. Ultimately pleasing, it will uplift a meal into a memorable experience. A wine that can stand toe to toe with some of the greats, and is not to be missed if you are a Chenin addict.