2019 VDF ‘Les Cocus’
100% Chenin Blanc from a 0.6ha parcel situated between Montbenault and Les Aussigouins - perhaps the two best sites in the area. Planted in 1958, this parcel sits right at the top of the hill. The vines are grown on schist bedrock, and there isn’t much topsoil. Aged in old 500L barrels for 10 months, then another few months in tank before bottling. Zero SO2 at any stage.
Clear vibrant colour with golden tones. Again, gently reductive on opening. On the nose we find both fresh and baked apples, with white floral notes. The lees work and barrel ageing is evident here, giving it a different profile to the wines that were raised in stainless steel. Overall it seems deeper and more sensual than L'Esprit Libre, which is a bit more fresh and zippy. To taste it is mineral, with rich detail and texture. It’s luxurious, but lifted and fresh at the same time. Crunchy apples, white flowers and honey. Sweet fruit, generous and mouth coating, and extremely long. The acidity is bright and carries the wine superbly to the mineral finish. Apple crunch freshness, followed by the richness factor which is harnessed beautifully. This is young now and made for the long haul. However, to open now and decant it is absolutely divine. Love the schisty tension on the back palate, and the overall complexity of this outstanding golden elixir.